Hello! This is Alani Strang, and I’m the Executive Assistant and Social Media Director for Evans Brothers Coffee. I had the amazing opportunity of traveling to Costa Rica for a Coffee 101 trip hosted by our partners at Cafe Imports. This trip included a group of 11 eager coffee people and four jam-packed days of bus rides to different farms, cooperatives, and associations, all organized by Oxcart Coffee, Cafe Imports’ Costa Rica office. Each day revolved around our education of Costa Rican coffee farming. From history lessons and Micromill machinery tours, to farm walks and cuppings, we were immersed in the farming lifestyle, and learned just how much hard work goes into enjoying a cup of coffee. Having a passion for farming, I’d been dreaming of a trip like this since my early days at Evans Brothers, just hoping for the day I could see coffee farming with my own eyes. I am forever grateful I get to work for a company that promotes and encourages their employees to follow their passions; I’m even luckier that mine go hand in hand with my job. Getting to experience the life of a coffee farmer opened my eyes even more to the world that is coffee. And it’s only the beginning! The most common theme I discovered is that Costa Rica is a country that truly cares about their people and their history of coffee farming. They take great pride in providing a higher quality of life for farmers and even harvesters that travel from neighboring countries. The people are kind, genuine, and inviting, and appreciate us learning about their lives as much as we appreciate their dedication to the livelihood of producing delicious coffee. “This is your home” was said by every farmer we visited, and not once did it feel insincere.
On our first day we were shuttled bright and early to our first destination, Cerro San Luis, a multi generational farm owned and operated by two siblings and their spouses in the West Valley. We arrived at their house and mill, where we were put in the back of their big red dump truck and driven up and down the bumpy dirt road to the farm. I remember thinking “you’re really experiencing it now Alani” as we ducked under trees and vice gripped the edge of the truck to stay standing. This farm was beautiful! Blue skies and 80 degrees, tucked up in the mountains and bordering a national forest, the coffee plants traced the steep hillside. We walked the winding road of the farm while learning about their growing practices, like how the banana trees accompany the rows of coffee plants to help with nitrogen production in the soil. Although the timing of our trip just missed harvest season, I still got to see some trees with cherries ranging in all the colors of red, yellow, and green. Before touring their mill, (which all takes place on the land behind their houses) we enjoyed fresh fruit and cold water from the farmers, a necessary break for those coming from the wintery north. We walked through the wet-mill, saw their drying processes, and learned about a new coffee variety growing right outside their front door that is naturally and slightly decaffeinated. At the end we exchanged our sincerest gratitudes and were back on the bus to head to lunch.
Our next stop was Cooperlibertad, the largest cooperative in the Central Valley. Cooperlibertad was developed in 1961 after years of large, profit focused coffee businesses dominated the market in Costa Rica. They focus on not only the quality of coffee they produce, but also provide education resources for farmers, farming assistance, and making sure the farmers are getting paid what they deserve. The cooperative now collects coffee from 2500 hectares (6,177 acres) from their own lands and 500 independent producers. In their first year they helped farmers produce 100 bags of coffee. Today they are up to 1,000 bags a year; a huge achievement for the cooperative.
We toured their facility, scaling the rebar scaffolding while admiring the big processing machinery. It was such a contrast to the mill we saw earlier in the day. Machines running so loud you can barely hear what’s going on, huge drying chambers, fermentation tanks, and a warehouse with bags of coffee as far as the eye can see. This tour finally put into perspective the amount of hard work that goes into these cooperatives, from receiving and sorting cherries, to the workers who routinely check on the giant machinery to make sure it’s all working properly, all while producing quality coffee and providing a higher quality of life for farmers.At the end of the tour we had our first cupping of the trip with the two managers of the Co-Op. I’m not the most avid coffee drinker believe it or not, but cupping the coffees you are learning about, at the place they’re produced, and with the people who put in the work is a totally different experience than cupping back home. My appreciation for it all grew with each sip.
The second day started with a visit to the Las Lajas Micromill, a farm and mill that gives me heart eyes and butterflies. We were given a tour by owner Francisca Cachon, the pioneer of producing Natural and Honey coffees in Costa Rica. Back in 2008 when Costa Rica was only producing Washed coffees, the area experienced an earthquake that took out their electricity and water, both necessary ingredients of a wet-mill’s operation. Before shutting down and letting the harvest go to waste, Francisca quickly took to her knowledge of African processed coffees, rerouted the entire operation, and Las Lajas became the first micromill to produce Naturals and Honeys. Talk about true dedication to your livelihood. “Innovar es nuestra pasion” or “innovating is our passion” is the Las Lajas motto.
Las Lajas comprises a few hundred hectares of lush, rolling hills, split into a few different fincas, or farms, to keep better track of what coffee is coming from where. Every part of their immaculate facility was painted in bright greens and yellows, the rows of coffee drying in the hyperbolic dryer (greenhouse) were perfectly organized, and the cupping room overlooked a stunning valley vista. Again we were met with perfect blue skies and sunshine, and as we walked down a steep road to their new drying area, a guy in my group asked “Are we in heaven?” and the simple answer was “Yes.”We cupped some fantastic coffees with Francisca and with the help of my Spanish speaking group members, I got to tell her that Evans Brothers is a Good Food Awards Finalist for one of the most prestigious awards in specialty coffee in the US, with her coffee! To see her face light up with excitement is something I will never forget. We couldn’t roast good coffee without all of her hard work. It’s a symbiotic relationship, and my heart exploded with pride getting to thank her for what she does for the coffee world.
Our next stop was the Don Sabino Micromill, a farm I’d been most excited about visiting on the trip. Owner Steven Vargas is a 5th generation farmer and one of the first producers in Costa Rica to sell his coffee through Cafe Imports, and in turn, Evans Brothers was one of the first companies to purchase his coffee. The micromill is in a residential neighborhood with drying beds terracing the hill below their home, and until the recent building of a warehouse, Steven and his family would rest their coffee in their living room. They live and breathe coffee, and you can feel it. The uniformity of Steven’s coffee is off the charts, as all picking and sorting of the cherries is done by hand with the same harvesters returning to his farm every year
While touring the warehouse of resting coffee, we got to pick out a coffee to cup with Steven later in the week, which was an awesome, hands on experience right at the source. I also had a chance to express to Steven how much we love his coffee at Evans Brothers, and once name dropping Rick and Randy, I was met with the biggest hug and words of deep appreciation. It was a big full circle moment being in the presence of someone I’ve looked up to in the coffee world for years. I received a message from Steven later in the day that got me teary eyed.
“Thank you for coming and being here at Don Sabino, it is a pleasure to have you here. I remember many beautiful moments since I met the Evans Brothers. Rick and Randy, you were my first friends and clients and will always be my first friends and clients. What an honor to have you here, welcome, this is your home.”
We started day three with a trip to El Instituto del Cafe, or ICAFE, one of the most organized and prestigious coffee associations in Central America. Every coffee farmer and producer is registered through ICAFE to keep track of all exporting coffee, provide growing techniques, and ensure farmers are being paid the best they can be. The institute is funded by a small export tax on all the coffee, with the majority of each dollar sold returning to the farmer. Through ICAFE, Costa Rica produces 1.8 million bags of green coffee per year from 93,000 hectares of coffee producing land.
ICAFE is like informational Disneyland for coffee people with their experimental farms and lab research. They turn discarded cherries into “pulp pellets” that they can burn as fuel for equipment, they run tests on soil samples and plant pathology, experiment with different levels of shade coverage, and grow rare varieties all so they can communicate the best practices back to farmers. We got to tour their labs to watch soil analysis and seed sampling in action, and viewed their seed bank where we learned they provide seeds with a germination rate of 80%, which is an incredible statistic for farmers.
We walked their experimental farm with their head farmer, learning about practices along the way. Again we were met with what a farm looks like after harvest, but this farm put into perspective how many years it actually takes to have a cherry producing farm, with trees 3-9 years old. Coffee farming is an investment in your patience and dedication to extremely hard work. We discussed tree pruning practices, saw how the fungus “coffee rust” affects the whole operation of the plant, and learned how important rain is for cherry production. The plants need a few weeks of heavy rain for the flowers to open up, but then the rain must promptly stop after they bloom, or else the flowers fall off the plant and won’t produce cherries. Though most of the trees were bare, they told us there was a section of the farm where they had a water leak, thus mimicking a heavy rainfall, so we got to see some beautiful white coffee flowers in bloom.
ICAFE solidified that Costa Rica takes care of their people. We learned that their government provides health insurance and child care to not only Costa Rican farmers and harvesters, but also for those traveling for harvest from other countries like Panama and Nicaragua, who make up 80% of their harvesters. They also have a gender policy in place for women producers to ensure their safety and equal pay. I found myself quite emotional in their presentation room learning about all the steps they take to provide a high quality of life for farmers and their families in all fields of agriculture across Costa Rica. It’s such a supportive and educational environment, they want all their farmers to succeed happily. Writing this section, I am still so inspired by all they do for Costa Rican coffee farming at ICAFE. This place stole a piece of my heart forever. 3 Cheers for ICAFE!
After ICAFE we went to lunch and were set free to roam San Jose in the afternoon. Our hotel was within walking distance to a big park, and three of us decided to go for a stroll before dinner. We walked through the park with the sun setting, changing the sky from bright blue, to purples and pinks, and finally dark. Again I was hit with the overwhelming feeling of I love it here, from the giant trees with air plants, to bird watching, to couples resting on their picnic blankets, and the amount of runners, skaters, and activity in the park. Maybe it’s the constant close to 12 hours of sunlight that provides a more fulfilling routine, maybe it’s the good coffee, good people, and good lifestyles that makes Costa seem like the happiest place in the world. All I know is my first time exploring this amazing country was spent giddy and caffeinated with a smile ear to ear, and I cannot wait to go back.
The last day was so bittersweet. Knowing it was all coming to an end soon while still trying to absorb as much information and sunshine as possible. We started at Oxcart Coffee, which is Cafe Imports’ office for Latin America, located in the Central Valley of Costa Rica. Beautiful, vibrant murals painted on the walls, the back doors opened to a sunny courtyard, lattes being made for each of us before the presentation. I was finally convinced that I was home. It felt like our group had known each other our whole lives, just comfortable, happy, and all there for the same reason– the love of coffee.One of our amazing trip leaders Adriana, or “Mom” as I called her, gave us a history lesson of Costa Rican coffee, as well as the origin story of Cafe Imports and the importance of Oxcart Coffee in Costa. Adriana not only works at Oxcart, but is the logistics behind all of the exported coffee from Costa Rica for Cafe Imports. Coming from a coffee producing family, it’s literally in her blood. I bow down to all of her hard work and coffee knowledge.
We were joined by Steven Vargas from Don Sabino, and got to cup the coffee we chose while we were touring his farm. The Cafe Imports crew and a group member who roasts for a company in the Netherlands, roasted this coffee the night before on their sample roasters, as the main roaster experienced some technical difficulties. They were all a little nervous going into the cupping, with fingers crossed that they did Steven’s coffee justice. From picking the green coffee, to smelling it freshly ground and brewed, the anticipation grew with each cupping step before we could finally slurp. This coffee, and I’m not exaggerating, is the best coffee I have ever had. Juicy, bright, melons, cherry, perfectly balanced, and did I mention juicy? You can ask anyone on my trip, we all concur. By the end of the cupping we were slurping grounds just for one more taste. Not only that, we got to look Steven in the eyes, finally understanding the magnitude of what this moment meant for everyone, and thanked him for producing such an amazing coffee. It was an experience at the source I will never forget; the cherry on top of my trip.
We headed to the Specialty Coffee Association of Costa Rica that was opened in 1993 by local producers, roasters and exporters. This association also focuses on high quality coffee and high quality of life for farmers. They provide educational programs from cultivation to cupping, while focusing on quality over quantity. The small country of Costa Rica produces <1% of all the coffee in the world, and SCA.CR uses that to their advantage by finding niche markets and promoting their specialty coffees. They host a “Cup Of Excellence” event, where green coffee buyers and roasters cup, score, and bid on coffees they want to bring home. This event is very important for producers, establishing relationships between farmers and buyers, while the bidding auction ramps up the price per pound higher than what they would typically get for it. It incentivizes farmers to educate themselves on good farming practices and to produce high quality, specialty coffees.
Before SCA.CR, we stopped for lunch, and Steven was able to join us which made it even better. With some help, I told him that I’d love to come back to harvest, and he replied “Anytime, this is your home”. Dreams really do come true, and I hope I can one day live up to the quality standards that Steven upholds.It was starting to settle in at lunch that this was our last meal all together. If I could go back in time, I would’ve made that lunch last all day. Cheesy chicharróns were passed around the table, margaritas were ordered, and my first authentic elote was absolutely delicious. But more importantly, I looked around the table at all the incredible people I was with for the last three days and knew that I had made friends for life. I was blessed with the best group of people on this trip; everyone was so kind and inclusive, and brought something unique to our group. I am still inspired by every person I met and I know that there will be a time when our paths cross again.
photo credit - Cafe Imports
We ended the day with going to the Mercado Central, a never ending maze of vendors selling anything you can think of, from delicious ice cream treats to trinkets, spices, herbs, fabric, and live animals. We bobbed and weaved our way around, getting some goodies to bring back home. After that it was time to part ways; I had a red eye back to the States that I had to pack and mentally prepare for. Hugs and some merch were exchanged, as well as sincere words of appreciation I have for my new friends. I was not ready to leave and I still don’t think I’ve fully returned, still living in a daydream over all I got to experience. As stated earlier, this is just the beginning, and I’m beyond excited to see where the coffee world will take me.A huge thank you to Cafe Imports and my supportive team at Evans Brothers for making this all happen. I will hold this experience close to my heart forever.
